Mastering Backgammon (37)

37. Replying to the Opening Move: Part 3. Playing a 3-2 on the Second Roll


Last time, we looked at how to play the 2-2 roll in response to White's various opening rolls. This time, we'll consider how to play another small roll: 3-2. Here's a table of the best plays.



Let's take a closer look and see what general principles we can squeeze from this table.

First, the obvious plays.

If White runs out to your 10-point or 11-point, you should hit and split. This covers 6-3, played 24/15 and 6-4, played 24/14. Hitting and bringing down a second builder is not a bad play in either case, but splitting gives a more balanced structure.

If White splits to your 5-point (with 4-1, 4-3, or 5-4), hit with 8/5* and bring down a builder with 13/11. The 5-point is crucial and you must fight for it, even though hitting with the three strips the builder from the 8-point.

If White splits to both your 4-point and your 5-point by making the Middle Eastern 4-3 play (24/20 24/21), then double-hit with 8/5* 6/4*. No other play is close. Again, you must fight for the key points in the opening, and no points are more key than your 4-point and 5-point.

Now the not-so-obvious plays.

If White makes a strong point (with 3-1, 4-2, 5-3, or 6-1), you need to split, to guard against being blocked. After 5-3 or 6-1, split and build with 24/21 13/11. After 4-2, split and build with 24/22 13/10. After 3-1, you have a choice of splitting plays; you can split to either the 22-point or the 21-point. Although the 21-point is the stronger point, the best play is 24/22 13/10. This is an example of a general principle in very early play. If you have a choice of splits, you want to split to the point your opponent least wants to make. This mitigates the effect if he then rolls his best (4-2 in this case).

If White slots his 5-point (with 2-1, 4-1, 5-1, or 6-2), you want to split. You'll definitely want to split once White makes his 5-point, and you can't be sure you'll roll a splitting number next turn, so split now.

If White splits to your 4-point (with 3-2 or 4-3), hit with 6/4* and bring down another cover with 13/10. Fighting for the point is clear, and you definitely want to be able to cover if you're missed.

If White splits with an ace (with 2-1, 4-1, or 5-1), then you want to split and build with 24/21 13/11. As with many other opening rolls, the general principle is that you want to copy what your opponent did. If he split, you split; if he brought down builders, you should bring down builders.

If White brings down two builders (with 3-2, 5-2, 4-3, 5-3, or 5-4), you should Bring down two builders as well, with 13/10 13/11. As before, the right route is to copy what your opponent did.

If White splits to your bar-point (with 5-1, 6-2, 6-3, or 6-4), you don't have any great reply. The best idea is to make a build-and-split play with 24/21 13/11. You don't normally like exposing a blot on the 11-point gratuitously, but there's some compensation in that White's fours already play well on the other side of the board. Note that using the whole roll to hit on the ace-point (6/1*) is never correct. This is a common error seen in many beginner's games.

The remaining four situations are somewhat unique.

If White runs with 6-5, just play a normal build and split with 24/21 13/11.

If White makes his 2-point with 6-4, bring down two builders with 13/10 13/11. Making the 2-point creates a formation which is good for attacking but very poor for priming, so keep your back checkers together and start to build.

If White runs with 6-2 (playing 24/16), there's no advantage to leaving a blot on either the 10-point or the 11-point. In this case, just make the Middle Eastern split with 24/21 24/22.

If White builds and splits with 5-2 (playing 13/8 24/22), hit and unstack with 6/3* 13/11.

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